Bratsigovo Bracigovo Bratzigovo Брацигово

Thursday, January 27, 2005

Got Peanut Butter

Last week when I went traveling around Bulgaria I planned to get a couple things before coming home, avacados and peanut butter. You can find them in the bigger cities, but in small towns like Bratsigovo the stores don't carry them. Got the avacados but forgot the peanut butter.

Well I got my peanut butter today! I had to go to Pazardjik for an emergency exercise. Every volunteer is a part of a consolidation group of around a dozen volunteers that meet in case of a disaster. The guy in charge of security for Peace Corps Bulgaria chose my group to take part in the test. Every one in my group had to meet at our consolidation place in Pazardjik. After we all gathered together, they let us free. So I went off and bought some Peanut Butter. I could hardly contain my exitement. See what Peace Corps does to you. It makes you jump around at the thought of getting things like peanut butter.

My mom asked me what I wanted for my birthday recently. I almost told her to get me Ziploc bags. Ha ha! They don't have those here and they are so useful.

Lunch starts in 10 minutes. I hope those avacados are ready today.

Wednesday, January 26, 2005

More Snow, No Dough

It snowed pretty good for the last couple of days, but today the snow melted into slush. I wanted to take more pictures of Bratsigovo in the snow, but I guess I will have to wait until the next snow storm. The ski resorts up in the mountains should have a lot of snow now. Maybe I can check one of them out in a couple weeks.

The work I am doing this week is about as boring as the color of snow. We have a lot of projects to do, but no money to carry them out, so I look for funding sources on the internet. I can't seem to find money for these projects. I've looked through so many organizations websites, I forget which ones I've already looked at and for which project.

When I was in Shumen last week I met a very good volunteer and he has recieved about $35,000 for his organization. He's been in Bulgaria for a year and a half. Most of the projects I need to find funding for are $35,000 alone. That's down from the half a million dollar projects they wanted me to find funding for when I first got here. $35,000 doesn't seem like that much money on the grand scale. It's got to be out there somewhere, right? But where? I'll keep looking.

Sunday, January 23, 2005

Месо Хляб?

I made meat loaf tonight. It turned out very good. Below is a recipe for Banitsa. A traditional Bulgarian dish. Typically you use fetta cheese for the filling, but I've made Apple Banitsa, Pumpkin Banitsa, and mushroom and cheese Banitsa. It's very versatile. Try it out.

http://www.abvg.net/Foods/Feta/recipes/banitza.htm


Saturday, January 22, 2005

5 Cities 5 Days

Last week I went to five cities in five days. Veliko Turnovo, Tsenevo, Rousse, Razgrad, and Shumen. I visited volunteers and talked about the projects they're working on and met with their English clubs or classes in some cases. That's the days. The nights were a little more interesting. Read on.

My visit to Veliko Turnovo was the tail end of a birthday party, but I stayed an extra night and had dinner with a volunteer there at Mustang food. A place with not so good American food. The volunteer told me to come back in a year and it would taste much better. I guess it depends on how long you've been away from the states. We talked about being a PCV and I got some good advice.

In Tsenevo I visited two PCV's, Sarah and Johney. Johney is trying to get funding to make a park around a local pond. He's got all the info and blue prints on how to make it. When communism fell a lot of projects that had been started were never finished because there was no money for them any more. You can see a lot of half built stadiums and buildings in a lot of cities.

Next it was off to Rousse where I helped Don, a youth developement volunteer with his English classes. It was a pretty informal class and I just walked around and talked with groups of students. It was fun. I almost wish I had the oppurtunity to teach a class a week. The night before Don took me out to see what the night life in Rousse had to offer. It was a pretty crazy night. We met this Brit and he kept buying us drinks. We ended up going to a strip joint, but it sucked so we went to another one called Moulin Rouge. We managed to make it back home before five am just after we got back from a brothel. That's right I went to my first brothel in Bulgaria. Am I a man now dad? Actually we didn't do anything. The only thing I remember there was the toilet. A little too much mastika(licorice alcohol) for me. Man, Don's a pretty crazy guy when he gets drunk. You'd never know it by looking at him.

The next night in Razgrad another guy kept buying me and Jason(a PCV) drinks. This guy was probably from the mafia. My drink of choice that night was Bailey's. A double shot of that costs 8 lev. Which is pretty expensive here considering a beer costs 1 lev and the average income is around 200 lev. I held my own, but Jason got pretty drunk. Maybe a little too drunk. The mafia guy continued to buy us drinks and tried to say that Russia would beat us if there was a war. After a while when we started talking to someone else he kept saying, "Fuck America." Some people like to say that here just to get a reaction out of us. On one of my first nights in Bulgaria I met a guy who said Osama Bin Laden is his best friend. They just want to see how we react. I don't fall into the trap. The night before in Rousse the Britt was trying to argue that Peace Corps is equaitable to the Nazi youth. They're just messing with us. None the less the mafia guy and the Britt before him kept buying us drinks. There was a lot of Nahsdrahvay's(toats) or nice drive ways as some like to say.

If you think the week so far was pretty exciting let me tell you about Shumen. I hung out with some pretty loud and crazy guys there. I met with three volunteers who live in Shumen and three others who came to celebrate one of the volunteers birthdays. They brought a Euro volunteer from Denmark with them. She couldn't understand why one of the volunteers had an American flag hanging in his living room. Mark, the PCV, said sarcastically and appropriately, "Well before I lived in Bulgaria, I lived in America." He he! That was the end of that conversation.

We got take out chinese(really good this time). You know I have had more chinese food here then I do in the states. Everybody wants chinese when we go out. Oh well! So yeah...we drank a lot of course. There was a little nudity and a lot of odd dancing. I have lots of pictures, but I'm not sure you want to see them. Mark has a hooka pipe so we smoked mint hooka. That stuffs pretty good. I'd only done it one time before at a hooka bar in Sacramento. We finally got to the disco in town and were able to break a few bottles on the floor before we left. I went to bed at three and woke up at five to take the only train at six am. Eight hours later I made it to Plovdiv and took a bus to Bratsigovo. I am now safe at home. Whew!

I took so many buses, trains, not planes, but automobiles last week I am surprised I made it to all my destinations without incident. I did have some close calls though. I didn't get on my first bus because I was going to Veliko Turnovo and the sign on the bus said Rousse. I didn't know it stopped in Turnovo until the bus driver told me to get on the bus. And then when I was leaving Shumen I couldn't get out of the building where I stayed with a volunteer. The door was locked. Finally somone came with a key. I thought I might have to break a window.

You can find info about all the cities I visited in the right hand column under "Cities I've visited in Bulgaria."

Thursday, January 20, 2005

Veliko Turnovo


(My Bus Friends)

I went to Veliko Turnovo, the old capital, the other weekend. It took six hours. I made some friends on the bus to kill the time. Turnovo is a really cool city. Probably my favorite so far, right ahead of Plovdiv.

The reason for my journy was to celebrate the birthday of another volunteer. We stayed in a hostel a little out of the way, but had a great view of the castle. We ate chinese food that night, went to a few bars, and went to bed early(2am) to see some site seeing the next day.

They're rebuilding the castle, but right now it is pretty delapidated. We wandered all through the fortress like it was a jungle gym, climbing walls and jumping in holes. The old church at the top was pretty modern inside. The art inside is new and a little odd, but cool.

Pictures coming soon!

Friday, January 14, 2005

Guest Tour

This weekend I am going to Veliko Tournovo, the old capital, for the first time. It should be fun. I knew a guy back in the states who lived there for three months and he told me some places to check out. Pepy's and Sream!

Next week should be really cool too because I decided it would be interesting to visit other volunteers and see what work they are doing. Some of them are teachers or have English clubs, so I am going to do some speaking in front of their groups. It should be a good trip. I am going to Russe, Razgrad, Shumen, and Tsenevo. I just hope I don't get lost using the public transportation. I'll post something about my little trip when I come back. Have a great week. I'll talk to you when I talk to you.

Wednesday, January 12, 2005

Interesting Questions

Since I've been in Bulgaria I have been asked lots of questions by the Bulgarians I come in to contact with. Most of them have been meaningful and a few of them have been very memorable. I've been asked if I am from France. One of the first questions I was asked is how I can be from California if I am so white. My favorite though is, "are women in America fat?" How do you answer that kind of a question? I said, "sometimes" and the guy, who happens to be one of the Vice-Mayors in my town, disimissed my answer as being diplomatic. LOL!

I think the best way to answer some of these questions is with another question. Instead of saying, "no', my Dad use to say, "does a chicken have lips?" Do you have any more of those Dad? I have to think of some. And can you translate it into Bulgarian? Ok...I'll have my Bulgarian tutor translate them for me. It'll be nice to see the look on her face anyway. He he!

I added another album. Lovech & Tsenevo. Enjoy it! I also added a bunch more links about Bulgaria and the cities I have visited. All of them should have an English version except a couple. Well I have been on this computer way too long today. I'm gonna get something to eat.

Monday, January 10, 2005

California Dreaming

I added two photo albums. Peshtera & Pirin and Winter in Bratsigovo. Eventhough the winter here took a sharp turn looking more like spring. Am I in California or am I dreaming? I don't know if I will get to snowboard this year. I'll let you know if I do though. Below is a few more perspectives from other PCV's in Bulgaria. Check 'em out.

JBrian Murray
The Alaskan Bulgarian
Sofia Slide Show

Saturday, January 08, 2005

Imen Den

This week has been kickin' my ass. I have been trying to recover from my four day New Years Marathon and this is the week that work starts to pick up. On top of that, I have been to so many Na Gosti's(guest party's) because of peoples Imen Den's(name day's). A name day is a religious holiday Bulgarians celebrate. Every Bulgarian has a day when their name is associated with the name of a Saint. Sometimes this day is bigger then their birthday. This week the name days for Jordon and Atanassov, and of course all the derivitives of these, were celebrated on Thursday and Friday respectivley. At these little Na Gosti's drinking is pratically a requirement.

Yesterday I was about to leave work when someone said, "Haiday Matyoo" because there was a Name day party in the cellar bar. "Ah man", I thought. For them these parties are a time to relax, but for me it's work. I have to listen hard when someone is talking to me and try to understand what they're saying. Then I have to figure out how to respond. And of course once I got down there that one lady grabbed me to dance. I guess there is a little joke that she likes me because everybody was kidding me and my counterpart was trying to hook me up with her. But she's too old for me. I don't know how old she is, but it doesn't matter once they hit thirty. The PCV's joke about how Bulgarian women are gorgeous until they hit 30, then the ugly stick gets them. And it's true. Ah, I had fun anyway. It is nice to be the center of attention.

The night before I went to a Na Gosti for another Imen Den and stayed out till 2am. Rise and shine for work at 8am. The good thing about these Na Gosti's is that I don't have to worry about dinner. The bad thing is they last so long. I was there for 8 hours. At one point in the night they sang some old Bulgarian songs and then they wanted me to sing. They said, "Sing something country." So I sang the Gambler by Kenny Rogers. He he! They enjoyed it.

So now it's the weekend and I want to go out. Maybe visit some of those bars I talked about in Plovdiv. But I should probably set this weekend out.

Tuesday, January 04, 2005

New Year's Marathon

Chestita Nova Goodina! Happy New Year!

The party marathon started on Thursday. I headed for Plovdiv to find a bus to Chepelare. While I was in Plovdiv I bumped into another volunteer and he covinved me to go to Smolyan with him. When we got to Smolyan we met some other volunteers who were sitting with and old Scotish Royal Marine who lived in town. We chatted and he paid for all our drinks. Later that night we went out to a bar where I had my first Captain and Coke in a long time. I don't think it was real Captain Morgan though. It didn't have the pirate on the bottle and it tasted horrible. I only took a few swigs. What a tease. I drank a few other drinks and got a little faded. That night we stayed at a volunteers apartment. We woke up early and made it to Chepalare in the morning and met with some more volunteers.

In Chepelare we stayed at a hotel owned by a Brit. They housed us, fed us, and threw us a New Year's party for $40 bucks. Not bad, huh? When midnight struck the owner of the hotel sprayed everyone with red champaigne. Everybody's cloths got stained red. I don't think he knew it was red champaigne. I've never heard it before. Outside everyone in the city let off all their fireworks, so no matter where you looked, there was sparks in the sky followed by loud bangs. We did the horo out in the snow until someone slipped. After that we went to the disco in town and then went back to the hotel to crash for a few hours.

Saturday night some of us went to Plovdiv. Thats the closest big city to my town, Bratsigovo. I found a lot of cool places there. We went to a bar that played only songs like "What a Wonderful World", "Boardwalk", and "Stand by me". Classic R&B I guess. When certain songs played we all sang. I think the crowd liked it. I know the bartender did. Another place we went to had a band that sang rock music. The lyrics were in english but we didn't recognize the songs. It was a cool place down in a basement. Very scary and dungeon like. My brother would like it. That night was probably the funnest of all of them because I was with only a small group of volunteers.

I drank the most that night of any of the nights and on the least amount of sleep. We went to a few other places and late in the night, probably after five in the morning, after getting lost and not being able to find the hostel (eventhough it was right in front of me) I went to bed. Yeah, I had a little too much to drink that night. I woke up about ten in the morning and took a taxi back home. I spent Sunday recovering and promising never to drink that much again.